HCOC The Hyundai Coupe Owners Club ®And Forums

exhaust and either a K&N panel or a proper CAI

Will be watching this very keenly, is the reprogram still in beta stage as in its tried and tested?.

Great news! Very impressive performance improvement, is there any indication on how mid range torque will be affected? I'm all over this if there is a good improvement in in gear acceleration.

Could the remap be done instead of a FIC for forced induction? Not that I'm planning it, just curious.

For low boost on a supercharger, yes. Although the out the box system handles 1 bar reasonably well.
Turbo? Youll need boost controllers.

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I will let you guys know when I get mine done. At modified nats this year I got 197 and that was with S/S headers, 2.5in cat back, AEM cold air intake, intake spacer


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The re map is essentially still a fixed map, for any FI system a proper piggyback would be better.

Would like to see what your car does on a rolling road rather than the show one Mr C


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I think the one at the show might be a little wrong as we didn't see them calibrate it.


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Carlsberg wrote:I think the one at the show might be a little wrong as we didn't see them calibrate it.

i think it's regarded that that one reads a bit high but by how much no-one really knows. Almost tempting to put one on a known good dyno before the show and then on the show one to see what the difference is

My reading was higher than it should have been, and have as such elected to ignore it as a 'Show' reading. an ego booster and that alone.

robbo wrote:

Carlsberg wrote:I think the one at the show might be a little wrong as we didn't see them calibrate it.

i think it's regarded that that one reads a bit high but by how much no-one really knows. Almost tempting to put one on a known good dyno before the show and then on the show one to see what the difference is

- for those who don't know, it can happen one of two ways.

Either the plot is set up wrong - this can be easily spotted by looking at where Hp and Torque lines cross...anything other than at 5250rpm and it's wrong. Look in "The New HCOC Dyno Thread" to see what I mean.

The other way is the figure used to calculate engine Hp from WHp. The rollers read horsepower at the wheels, this then has a transmission loss % applied to give a calculated flywheel figure. This figure can be skewed to give a more impressive result for the "who can piss highest" brigade.

Just thinking out loud here but could the remap be programmed to remove the bank 1 sensor 2 function so to save all us with headers the headache of engine warning lights? Or at the least even just stop it from showing the light?

Probably better off just fixing your cat!

Glen M wrote:Just thinking out loud here but could the remap be programmed to remove the bank 1 sensor 2 function so to save all us with headers the headache of engine warning lights? Or at the least even just stop it from showing the light?

MIL/CEL eliminator?

It's a threaded jobbie that distances the lambda from the exhaust flow. I tried to get the dimensions off a guy once to have some cheap ones fabricated, but he didn't want to divulge the info to help the community at large.

Just off the phone to Ross.

here's the procedure for sending in the ecu.

Disconnect battery
Remove ECU
Send him ECU along with VIN number from chassis, reg number, mileage, details of if manual / auto and the engine size.
Wait 10-14 days (quicker if he has time)
Pay your 360 Schmeckles
When ECU turns up plug it in, reconnect battery and off you go.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START CAR WITHOUT ECU CONNECTED


Have told him I'll be sending mine down once I get the rare combo of a day off and dry weather to remove the ECU but looking forward to it, hopefully wont be too long

Lexo wrote:Just off the phone to Ross.

here's the procedure for sending in the ecu.

Disconnect battery
Remove ECU
Send him ECU along with VIN number from chassis, reg number, mileage, details of if manual / auto and the engine size.
Wait 10-14 days (quicker if he has time)
Pay your 360 Schmeckles
When ECU turns up plug it in, reconnect battery and off you go.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START CAR WITHOUT ECU CONNECTED


Have told him I'll be sending mine down once I get the rare combo of a day off and dry weather to remove the ECU but looking forward to it, hopefully wont be too long

Really looking forward to the results. Has he gave you any more ideas of gains?

Oh, and what would happen if you tried to start the car without an ECU? I'm guessing it wouldn't start but since you put it in red I'm intrigued.

I don't know entirely but it may screw the car over

No idea of gains, just thinks it will make a good difference even on my barely modified engine.

Lexo wrote:No idea of gains, just thinks it will make a good difference even on my barely modified engine.

Sounds good. Please keep us all informed of how it goes.

Have you considered having a dyno done before and after so you can measure the delta? Given the wider benefit for club members I'd be up for contributing financially to facilitate this - perhaps others might also?

Glen M wrote:

Lexo wrote:Just off the phone to Ross.

here's the procedure for sending in the ecu.

Disconnect battery
Remove ECU
Send him ECU along with VIN number from chassis, reg number, mileage, details of if manual / auto and the engine size.
Wait 10-14 days (quicker if he has time)
Pay your 360 Schmeckles
When ECU turns up plug it in, reconnect battery and off you go.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START CAR WITHOUT ECU CONNECTED


Have told him I'll be sending mine down once I get the rare combo of a day off and dry weather to remove the ECU but looking forward to it, hopefully wont be too long

Really looking forward to the results. Has he gave you any more ideas of gains?

Oh, and what would happen if you tried to start the car without an ECU? I'm guessing it wouldn't start but since you put it in red I'm intrigued.

No ECU = no cam sensor input, crankshaft sensor input, no ignition timing sensor, no MAF, no injector signal, no TPS, Nowt which in turn = your engine most likely major F.U.B.A.R.

It won't start, period. No damage will incur other than your battery being drained. Even the fuel priming is run through the ECU, so you won't get fuel either.


I highly doubt he can/will modify this ECU to your mods unless he's done extensive dynos with members and various mods to determine what the car likes to see in the a/f chart with said mods. What I think he would most likely do is lean the whole map out a little due to Hyundai running these motors pretty rich from the factory. That's across the board on their whole lineup since 1995.

Another option for him is to advance timing, or "allow" the adaptive timing to advance further. Hyundai has the ECU programmed so that no matter what fuel you use, the timing will only advance so far. The knock sensor will retard it with bad fuel, but advancing is limited to a point. You can take advantage of all kinds of fuels if this was done, including ethanol.

Also, removing the rev limiter is a BIG plus with the 2.0L and 2.7L since modifications tend to shift the power closer to and even beyond 7krpm.

Lexo did Ross mention if this was doable in a day if car was booked in with him - would rather do that at 2hr drive than risk courier damaging ECU.

LJR1977 wrote:Lexo did Ross mention if this was doable in a day if car was booked in with him - would rather do that at 2hr drive than risk courier damaging ECU.

I only asked him if he needed the car or not, said no need but that it would be around 10 days turn around.

MJNewton wrote:Have you considered having a dyno done before and after so you can measure the delta? Given the wider benefit for club members I'd be up for contributing financially to facilitate this - perhaps others might also?

Already have a before dyno @ 149.2 but that was from the nats so how accurate it is

From what I've heard on here I suspect 'not very'!